We’ve been looking for a proper lodge to stay while we are in Apulia for a long time. With lots of space for cooking and experimenting with regional vegetables, and, above all, with a stone oven for baking pizza, focaccia and other goodies. Of course, we wanted it to be a trulli, the typical round houses with a stone roof. To find a trulli was not the problem, but to find one to fall in love with, that’s a whole different point. One night, Susann searched until almost 4 in the morning to find our dream lodge. Her eyes were already dropping when she finally found the agency Cielo die Puglia. Afterwards, we only had to pick one of the carefully selected locations. Full of anticipation, we wrote an enquiry and immediately received a lovely response. From Isabell. She did not only arrange the reservation of the trulli, but also provided a lot of great addresses. We directly told her what we were up to – to get to know as much of the Apulian kitchen. Of course, this only works by talking to the people behind the stove. Listen to their stories and watch them working. Even young people hardly speak any English, so it is hard to get in contact with them without knowing Italian. Isabell was the perfect connection and helped us where she could. Maybe she helped a bit too much, because we had trouble deciding what to do during those few days. Too many possibilities, too short time.

After 4 days in the cave city of Matera we are back on our way to the coast. Along olive groves and old masserias, through settlements with trullis, and finally, there is our lodge.

We are welcomed with presents from the owner’s garden, regional specialties, including olive oil from her own cultivation. We take a short look around, wondering about the cold in the trulli, but then straight head to do the groceries. After all those days in the hotel, we finally want to be at the stove ourselves again. We are pretty fast in Ostuni, the white city, and primarily get fresh vegetables and fruits. Our way there was really fast, we just had to follow the main road. On our way back, our GPS seems to mean well with us and leads us to every trulli in the area. We drive along branched roads, left, right, right, left, and over dirt roads. Earlier it was so easy. Damn technology! It get’s darker by the minute and we wanted to be back already. When we finally arrive at our trulli, we don’t want to get our thick jackets off because inside it’s not much warmer than 12 degrees. As we find out, the gas tank is empty. This means no heating, no warm water. The owner is waiting for the long due gas delivery since days, but she is staved off every time. Hello Italy! We put on every electrical heating we can find and also light some candles. Of course, the fuse is out immediately. We are hungry, cold, and definitely imagined this day a bit differently… Tomorrow is Christmas. The cottage’s landlady leaves no stone unturned and brings a extemporary bottle of gas and also another electrical heating. We make ourselves a home, snuggle into bed, which luckily is equipped with heating blankets. Lights out, eyes closed, hoping that our stone lodge is a bit heated in the morning already.

New day, new luck. At 7 a.m. we are woken by sunbeams once again and we explore the trulli’s neighborhood. By the way, where is the donkey who made an incredibly noise this morning and thought himself to be a cock? The sun sets us up, even if it is crisp outside.
Today’s goal: fire the stone oven, bake pizza and focaccia, and enjoy the lovely sunny day outside. We already baked in a stone oven when we were in Spain. Unfortunately, we never fired this thing ourselves until now. Yannic is confident, though, he paid enough attention and knows how to do it. Well, let’s let him work…
However, dough has to be made first, it shall prove for a long time. For that, we took some of our own sourdough from home, which is 5 years old by now. We already prepared a poolish to set over night, which is bubbling happily already. To the poolish we now add flour, water, salt, and a bit of dried yeast. Knead everything thoroughly and give it a long time in front of the warm heating, ready is the perfect pizza dough.
With that, back to the fire. After half an hour, flames flicker the oven’s ceiling and built a great heat. Time to throw in the first chestnuts, which will be a small starter for the first appetite. After two hours, we can finally start baking happily. A quickly poured glass of red wine, sleeves rolled up and get to work.

By the way, if you don’t pay attention you will get a depilation of your arms from the oven for free. First, we try a simple focaccia with olive oil and rough sea salt to get the groove for the oven and to get a feeling for the heat and timing. A few minutes later, Yannic pulls out an almost perfect focaccia. Well, we really are ready to go. Beaming, he forms the next dough piece and belays it with tomatoes and olives. Get it on the hot stone and anxiously watch the dough rise and turn golden yellow. While we mesmerized stare at the oven we notice once again, how easily it is to make us happy with the simplest things. Slowly, the sun is setting and we notice that it is actually winter and the end of December. We quickly bake our pizzas and get into the warm tulli. On the pizza we have Cardoncellos, which are king oyster mushrooms, the typical mushrooms for this region of Apulia. Furthermore, we roasted pointed peppers in the oven and skinned them afterwards. This way, the vegetables get a very tasty flavor. Of course, olives, capers, fresh tomatoes and a wonderful organic mozzarella may not be missed.

Happy and beaming we sit in the warm kitchen with two incredibly tasty, crispy pizzas and three focaccias for the next day. It’s Christmas Eve, maybe we should have stuck a few candles into the focaccia…Merry Christmas!

The next day we start lazily. After a short walk we check the vegetables which our landlady gave us from her garden. Among them we find puntarella, a vegetable we did not know yet. It is an Apulian winter vegetable from which you mainly eat the blossom buds. Puntarella is a variation of chicory and you can eat it raw in a salad, but it can also be cooked. It is always thrilling to cook something you never tried before. This is exactly why we went on this culinary trip. We did not research on a traditional recipe for puntarella on purpose, but want to try our own interpretation of the Apulian cuisine, based on our impressions we gathered so far. We think of a dish with Cardoncello mushrooms, spring onions and the quirky buds of the puntarella, which look like giant asparagus tips.

In addition, how could it be any different, we have orecchiette. We slice the vegetables and roast them in olive oil with a bit of garlic and chili. Afterwards, add the pasta to the pan. As a topping, we have tiralli, another regional specialty. They are small pastry rings made of durum, olive oil, white wine, and salt, and are dipped into simmering water before baking. We crush the tiralli and roast them with pine kernels in a bit of olive oil. Ready is a super tasty and quick lunch. The Apulian cuisine is often called the cuisine for poor people, but we think puristic fits better. Few ingredients are combined to simple, delicious meals. Without knick-knacks and complex preparation.

On December, 26th we are on our way to the beautiful Masseria Potenti. Masserias are old farm- or country houses, and you have plenty of them in Puglia. Most of these buildings were built during the 14th to 18th century. Many owners produce wine, olive oil, and other local specialties themselves, or grow their own vegetables. Full of anticipation, we drive on large roads with potholes to Masseria Potenti. Again, we are warmly welcomed, with hugs and kisses, this time from the owner Maria. As if we knew each other for years and haven’t seen each other in a long time. It is a bit difficult for Maria to pronounce Yannic’s name, so she unceremoniously gives us Italian names: Susanna & Giovanni. She takes us directly to her kitchen in which she can run riot every day. As probably all Italians, she cooks with gut instinct, doesn’t stick to recipes, except to her great-grandmother’s, and loves to try new things. She tells us from her love of cooking with fresh herbs, which is essential to her cuisine. Just for us she prepares a new focaccia creation with lots of herbs and lavender. We watch her for a while how she flourishes the cooking spoon and let her daughter Chiara show us every corner of this unique estate. We can’t stop wondering. All those lovely details. Every flagstone, every blanket, every picture on the wall, carpets on the floor are chosen perfectly and every detail tells a story of its own. Chiara tells us with so much lifeblood how her great-grandmother sat in the rocking chair, how the ceramics in the old cupboard have been in the family’s possession for a long time and how Maria is still looking for more unique items to give the masseria its own charm. Even the light is different. Because of the chalk white walls the light is reflected in a way which makes the lodge seem to glow itself. Somehow, you have a feeling of being in Morocco rather than in Italy. Blowing white fabrics, a wood of cacti, lemon and orange trees which spread a wonderful scent; it’s another universe, really. After we have seen quite a lot, we are lead to a huge table set for two. Then, one delicacy follows the other which Maria carefully prepared in the kitchen in front of our eyes.

Of course, we have homemade tiralli, the focaccia with the herbs, a traditional bean paste made of dried fava beans and cooked puntarella (here it is again, our newly gained friend), a tart filled with zucchini and ricotta, and, as a killer, the probably most delicious lemon ice cream ever. It feels like biting into a lemon, and we are not so far from the truth. Chiara plucked a few lemons the day before from the garden, diced and froze them, and blended them with just a bit of sugar. To eat the ice cream in the warm sun while looking at the trees the fruits came from is incredibly pleasant. You can’t get it any more regional. Maria often made this gelato to get her son to eat more fruits. A Trojan vitamin c bomb, so to say. By the way, he came to visit for a few days from Thailand, where he lives and works at the moment. When he heard this we realized that the masseria is actually closed over the holidays. We are the honorary guests and the whole family took time for us. This is so heartwarming. During the visit on this property you really feel the Italians’ hospitable mentality.

After dinner, Chiara even showed us the area. In the family’s olive grove are some trees which are more than 100 years old. Of course, oil is pressed from the olive trees, and also red, rosé, and white wine is produces by the Tommasinos themselves. In summer, they harvest their own vegetables. We drive by all those olive trees to a Caribbean beach, which is a natural reserve with flamingos. We have never seen flamingos in wild life. While the sun is setting, we drive along the sea back to the masseria, say goodbye heartily and hit the road with a bottle of wine and a well scenting lemon in our pockets and lots of love in our hearts. We declined the offer to stay with a heavy heart. No tooth brushes, the fridge full of food, appointments, and, well, it’s us Germans again. You have to be able to handle so much cordiality. It’s not so easy to digest to know someone turned their own Christmas upside down for you. But we will be back! We promised Maria and Chiara. Maybe you want to join us? This place is perfect for a Krautkopf workshop. We are already making plans…

The next morning the lemon from the masseria meets our eye. We have quite something lieft we want to eat up. Two apples, durum wheat semolina, maple syrup, and eggs. First association: Pancakes. We will see if they work with durum wheat semolina. We beat the eggs and add salt, almond milk, and zest. Dice the apples, and mix the maple syrup with lemon juice. Heat olive oil in a pan, spread the apples on the base and fill the pan with the dough. Bake for a few minutes, then put it in the pre-heated oven so the pan cake gets done on both sides. Turn the pan upside down, soak it in the lemon maple mix and garnish with lemon slices and rosemary from the garden.

Let’s get out into the sun and have breakfast. Afterwards, we fire the stone oven one more time. By now, routine as settled. Still, Yannic has fun to make fire in the oven and to stare into the flames afterwards. Since your belly won’t fill itself alone, Susann takes care of the ingredients. Put eggplants, tomatoes, fresh dates, garlic and onions in a huge pan, add olive oil, aceto balsamico and into the oven with it. Out come delicate braised eggplants with a light smoky flavor. With the leftover focaccia we absorb every drop of the tasty sweet sour sauce. Red wine is left, too. Jeez, we are doing fine!

On the last day of our trip we meet Davide and Katia from Giardini 36 and got on a joined hunt for wild vegetables and herbs for a traditional Apulian recipe. The evening before we already spent in their stylish and modern restaurant and were eager to get to know more about the concept. The menu is pretty lucid with only a few selected seasonal dishes, and yet everyone finds something. They even had two vegan dishes and others could be prepared vegan/vegetarian on request. Made from regional organic, often home grown ingredients, they offer traditional dishes as “purea di fave con cicoria” as well as own creations. After 8 days of white flour we finally had our first whole wheat bread. Gorgeous!
In the morning, we drive with Davide, Katia and Davide’s brother Luciano, who is our translator, to their land to collect wild succory and herbs. En passant we learn a lot about agriculture, botany and regional traditions. Katia shows us a plant with big, soft leaves which can be used as bandages; from another you can gain an essence against high blood pressure.
The family owns 30 hectare which is farmed organic. During the winter, the meadows grow wild so the soil can regenerate and get new nutrients. In spring, everything is broken up and sowed. Furthermore, herbs and vegetables here do not only grow in classic patches but also grow wild. Besides plenty of cherry and other fruit trees there are olive trees as well, of course. Davide tells us that harvesting olives is pretty complex, since it is forbidden to harvest these trees, which are older than 100 years, with modern machines.

Davide’s oil is special because the olives are cold pressed within 6 hours after harvest. This way, he produces best quality organic olive oil. Beside the oil those two also produce liquors, jams, honey from their own bees, and other things for their label DFood.
Even if the way Katia and Davide lead their restaurant requires a lot of time and knowledge it is probably the best. You do not only have full influence in your recipes, but also on the quality of all ingredients, which basically account to a dish. What finally lands on the guests’ tables in the evening is harvested in the own fields in the morning.
And this we may experience now as well. Back in the restaurant Katia cooks even two of her recipes. She lets us take a look into her pots and tells us everything important about the preparation. She makes wild succory which we harvested together, on a bean mash and a rather modern creation of her own with potato foam, Romanesco broccoli florets and half dried tomatoes. There is a lot of good olive oil, too. Just like the evening before, it tastes deliciously and we really have to hold back not to lick the plates clean. It is wonderful to see with how much love and passion Katia prepares the dishes.
Again, we drive back to our trulli with our bags full of presents. Beside two bottles of their olive oil we got all ingredients for a lemon-herbs-liquor, which we already had the evening before as cordial in their restaurant. In the bag are zests of their home grown lemons, wild fennel which we harvested freshly, laurels, rosemary, and dried chamomile blossoms.

While the storm is raising outside and hailstones pelt on the ground we sit in our warm trulli and think about the last days in excitement. We were welcomed with so much hospitality, and people invited us into their homes and talked about their cooking with their eyes bright. For us, it was an extraordinary experience on which we want to build on. We hope you fancy more culinary journeys. We have tasted blood for sure and are already debate the next destinations.


  • Wow, was für ein toller Bericht! Ich sitze jetzt hier und habe ganz stark das Bedürfnis, sofort loszureisen ;)

    Eure Fotos sind wunder-wunderschön – ich glaube nicht, dass ich jemals so traumhaft schöne Reise-Fotos gesehen habe. Riesen Kompliment an euch! Und eure Erlebnisse lesen sich sehr schön, das Focaccia sieht zum Anbeißen aus und überhaupt ist das ein sehr stimmungsvoller Bericht.

    Danke dafür :)

    Liebe Grüße

    • Danke liebe Alena! Wir freuen uns riesig, dass wir damit deine Reiselust wecken konnten. Apulien ist ein wirklich schönes Fleckchen Erde und besonders die Menschen dort haben es uns angetan. Hätten sie uns nicht so warmherzig aufgenommen, hätten wir das alles gar nicht erleben können…

  • Wie immer wunderbare und inspirierende Bilder! Und wieder ein Reiseziel mehr, wenn die Kinder aus dem Gröbsten raus sind ;). Die leuchtend roten, leckeren Winterheckenzwiebel stehen heuer auch auf meiner Pflanzliste – “Toga Red” heißen sie glaube ich.

    Liebe Grüße,

    • Oh ja, Apulien ist nicht nur EINE Reise wert. Wir werden auch bald wieder dort sein und freuen uns schon jetzt darauf. Und die Zwiebeln waren wirklich großartig! Liebe Grüße, Susann

  • Ich bin sprachlos. Was für unfassbar-schöne Aufnahmen! Wie macht ihr das? Fotos wie aus einer anderen Welt. Toll…., ach was sage ich da ! MEGA !

  • Sprachlos. Mein Herz klopft.
    Danke. Wie schön das es euch gibt. Und ihr das alles mit uns teilt.
    Bin flitzebogengespannt auf eure nächste kulinarische Reise.
    Und jetzt stöbere ich nach Tiralli Rezepten.

    • Hach, wie schön, dass wir dich mit unserer Geschichte inspirieren konnten! Tiralli sind ziemlich einfach, dafür aber super lecker! Besonders zerbröselt, als knusprige Garnitur, haben wir sie lieben gelernt. Richtig lecker sind sie mit Fenchel oder Chili! Viel Spaß beim rumprobieren :) Liebe Grüße, Susann

  • Wunder, wunder, wunderschön! Ich wollte dieses Frühjahr gemeinsam mit meiner Ma einen Kochkurs in Apulien machen. Da der 90. Geburtstag meiner Oma gefeiert werden will, verschieben wir das nochmal. Ich bin also sehr gespannt, was für eine Workshopidee ihr habt!!!
    Ein toller Bericht mit grandiosen Bildern! Danke, dass ihr diese tolle Reise mit uns geteilt habt!

  • Einfach großartig…..bella italia und eure Kunst die Stimmung des Moments einzufangen….wenn man den Duft auch noch nicht festhalten kann…aus euren Bildern strömt er einem entgegen!
    Lieben Gruß Yutta

  • Genau so habe ich Apulien erlebt!!! Vielen Dank für diesen wunderschönen Bericht, beim Lesen kann man alles so richtig riechen und schmecken. So ist Apulien wirklich.
    Tolle Fotos!!
    Deshalb mache ich in diesem Jahr einen Kochkurs in einer Masseria, Da passt Eure Geschichte ganz genau.
    Grazie mille!!

    • Liebe Ingrid, wie schön, dass du so begeistert bist! Wir freuen uns besonders über das Feedback von Lesern, die selbst schon dort waren und den Charme Apuliens erleben konnten. Es ist schön das zu teilen und alte Erinnerungen durch unsere Fotos zu wecken. Ein Kochkurs klingt ganz wunderbar! Wann wie wo und überhaupt, ich bin neugierig und würde gerne mehr darüber erfahren! Liebe Grüße, Susann

  • Sowas von inspirierend – ganz toll! Lasst gerne was hören, was aus der Idee eines Workshops/Kochkurses auf einer Masseria wird – das finde ich spannend! Liebe Grüße aus dem Salzburger Land, Christina

    • Liebe Christina, wir werden uns in den nächsten Wochen darüber Gedanken machen und hoffen, dass wir den Workshop für den Herbst planen können. Wir haben schon so viele Ideen! Falls du noch nicht unseren Workshop Newsletter bekommst, melde dich einfach dafür an, dann wirst du sofort informiert, sobald ein Termin steht. Hier gehts zur Anmeldung. Liebe Grüße, Susann

  • Ihr macht ein schönes Land noch schöner !
    Ich habe eine ähnliche Reise bereits gemacht, aber ihr habt die Gabe, den Zauber von Apulien einzufangen. Ich bin sehr begeistert. Und ihr seid definitiv ein Vorbild für Fotografie.
    Danke für den Link mit Apartments, Ferienhäuser, Hotels,…. das werden wir auf jeden Fall weiterverfolgen.
    Wir waren in Apulien bisher immer darauf bedacht am Meer zu wohnen, ich dachte bereits aber öfter, ein Häuschen auf dem Land, in typischer Lage, wäre auch perfekt.

    • Liebe Sarah, wie schön, dass du so begeistert bist! Noch schöner, nachdem du selbst schon dort gewesen bist. Unser Haus was zwar nicht direkt am Meer aber weit war es bis dorthin auch nicht. Wir waren natürlich auch nicht im heißen Sommer dort. Dann hätten wir uns das Meer sicher auch direkt vor der Haustür gewünscht. Die Objekte, die du auf Cielo di Puglia findest, haben aber alle einen anderen Standort, sodass bestimmt keine Wünsche offen bleiben. Schau einfach vorbei, wenn du eure nächste Reise dorthin planst. Ich wünsche dir jetzt schon einmal ganz viel Spaß! Liebe Grüße, Susann

  • Herrlich – diese wunderbaren Bilder gepaart mit euren Beschreibungen wecken sofort Fernweh, Hunger, Lust auf Neues und zeigt, wie schön unsere Erde ist. So facettenreich und magisch bunt. Die Bilder sehen tatsächlich wie aus einer anderen Welt aus, in der der Takt wahrscheinlich ein wenig langsamer schlägt, als bei uns. Ich kann mir richtig gut vorstellen, wie geerdet einen diese Erfahrung macht. Vielen Dank für den Einblick in solch schöne Momente.

    • Mica, was für ein schöner Kommentar! Wir freuen uns riesig, dass du unseren Beitrag so inspirierend findest :) Liebe Grüße, Susann

  • Ihr Lieben, was für ein wunderschöner Reisebericht! Da bekomme ich sofort Fernweh… Habt ihr als Gegenmittel vielleicht das Rezept zu eurem Pizzateig für mich? Der sieht wirklich perfekt, außen knusprig, innen fluffig aus! Mit lieben Grüßen, Elly

    • Liebe Elly, wir machen unsere Teige jedes Mal etwas anders, so wie es eben gerade passt, auch von den Gehzeiten usw. Für den Teig haben wir dieses Mal Sauerteig benutzt, was wir aber nicht immer machen. Aufgeschrieben haben wir auf unserer Reise leider keine Rezepte, das müssten wir wohl einmal nachholen. Liebe Grüße, Susann

  • Ich freue mich schon sehr auf eure nächsten kulinarischen Berichte – nur weiter so!
    Eure Fotos – wie immer – wunderschön – inspirierend – echt.

  • Ihr Lieben,
    mein Verlobter und ich sind so begeistert von euren Erzählungen und Fotos, dass wir beschlossen haben unsere Flitterwochen in Apulien zu verbringen:)
    Ich habe schon auf der Seite geschaut, die ihr verlinkt habt, kann aber das Tulli von den Fotos nicht finden. Würdet ihr mir vielleicht den Namen der Unterkunft vertraten?
    Ich würde mich sehr freuen.

    Liebe Grüße

  • Hey. Wunderschöne Bilder die meine Sehnsucht nach Apulien furchtbar anheizt. Wir waren in den letzten 2 Jahren 4 Mal unten. Letztes Jahr für insgesamt fast 2 Monate. Am liebsten würden wir ganz hinziehen. Aber erstmal italienisch lernen. :) Ich hoffe ihr wart auch in Lecce. Das mit dem Winter im Trullo kennen wir auch. Waren vor 2 Jahren zu Silvester in einem eingeschneit. Lange aber spannende Story. Erzähl ich, wenn wir uns mal zufällig in Rensow am Tisch begegnen sollten. Nur als Tipp fürs nächste Mal. Das vegetarische Restaurant Terra Madre in Alberobello, die kleinen Reataurants in der Altstadt von Locorotondo (Götter der Fleischspiesse. Oh…), das Frühstück von Roberta im B&B Trulli Macco Macco, ebenfalls bei Locorotondo und definitiv einen Sonntag in der Masseria Le Stanzie bei Supersano weiter unten im Süden. Wir sind im Oktober wieder unten. Vielleicht sieht man sich. Liebe Grüße aus Kreuzberg. Alex

    • Hey Alexander, vielen Dank für deine liebe Nachricht! Ich kann sehr gut verstehen, dass ihr am liebsten nach Apulien ziehen würdet. Die Region ist traumhaft schön und wir freuen uns schon darauf im Oktober wieder dort zu sein. Dann schauen wir uns sicher auch einige deiner Empfehlungen an. Danke dafür! Frohe Ostern, Susann

  • Hallo Ihr Beiden!
    Ich wollte auf diesem Weg einfach mein herzliches Dankeschön an Euch richten! Wir hatten über Cielo di Puglia ein wunderschönes Trullo gefunden und hatten im September einen erlebnisreichen Aufenthalt in einer interessanten Region Italiens. Das kulinarische Highlight war für uns das Giardini 36 in Cisternino. Das Essen war fantastisch und der Primitivo wurde zuhause gleich nachgekauft. Hierfür nochmal mein besonderer Dank.

    Liebe Grüße

    • Lieber Richard, wir freuen uns riesig über deine Nachricht! Schön, dass wir dich mit unserem Beitrag inspirieren konnten und ihr eine genauso schöne Zeit in dieser einzigartigen Region hattet, wie wir. Wir sind nächste Woche in Ostuni um auf einem Kongress zu sprechen und hoffen, dass wir es ins Giardini schaffen! Die Betreiber sind so liebe Menschen, wir würden sie unglaublich gerne wiedersehen. Herzliche Grüße, Susann

  • I re-write simply to say perfect photos and full “anima del sud” anima mundi of people that living in South Italy. Again: Chapeau!

    Ps. Please note the link for subscription (already write) dont’ work

    Pss. At time the personal site is crashed

  • Ihr Lieben,
    euer Beitrag zu euerer Apulienreise hat mich zu Tränen gerührt. Meine Heimat. Und ihr habt sie in so wundervolles Licht getaucht. Ich danke euch von Herzen.

    • Patrizia, wie schön deine Worte zu lesen! Wir haben uns in diese wundervolle Region verliebt! Das Essen ist großartig und alle Menschen, die wir bisher dort kennengelernt haben, waren unglaublich herzlich. Es wird nicht unser letzter Besuch gewesen sein…

  • Hallo ihr Lieben, könnt ihr mir die Adresse von diesem tollen Trullo schicken? Vielleicht habe ich es überlesen, aber oben steht glaube ich nur die Plattform wo ihr es gefunden habt. Ganz liebe Grüße und einen wunderbaren Sommer, Natalie

    • Liebe Natalie, wir haben das Trullo Delle Rose gebucht. Apulien ist so eine wunderbare Region! Wir wünschen dir eine tolle Zeit, falls du dorthin reisen solltest. Liebe Grüße, Susann

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